Andavelo House Review: What It’s Like to Stay in a 300-year-old Swahili Boutique Hotel in Kenya
Anticipation bubbled in my stomach as I landed in Manda island and made my way by boat to Lamu Old Town. A preview of what was ahead revealed itself as I closed in on the shore, where the town’s mosque came into view, with its bright green minaret shining against the sun. I had arrived at the heart of Swahili architecture and culture on the Kenyan coast, and I was ready to absorb every detail during my stay.
Booking & Choosing the Property
When choosing among the multitude of homes the area offered, Andavelo House stood out to me for both its price point and commitment to the region’s aesthetic. The photos of intricately carved wooden entryways pulled me in immediately. I booked through Airbnb and was instantly greeted by the host, David, who reaffirmed the amenities available during my stay. I was especially pleased to hear that the guest house would be fully serviced with an onsite chef and a property manager named Safari to help me throughout my stay.
The Welcome Experience
David and Safari coordinated my airport pickup and made sure I arrived at the property without having to lift a finger. Literally, Safari carried my luggage on his back through the town’s winding corridors both on arrival and departure. Inside the boutique hotel, I was welcomed with a cold towel, which I gladly welcomed in the humidity, and a coconut dressed with a fragrant white frangipani.
Property Overview & Location
The guesthouse matched its Airbnb listing exactly, which was relieving. The entryway showcased a traditional baraza, framed by a wall carved in geometric patterns. Andavelo House is a restored 300-year-old boutique hotel at the center of Lamu Old Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The property includes an outdoor pool, rooftop sun terrace, dining room, and six en-suite bedrooms. As with most traditional Swahili homes, the indoor common area has an open roof, so during rain some of the water does get inside.
What makes Andavelo House’s location special is its placement directly beside the Lamu House Museum, so my first excursion was literally five steps from the front door. The surrounding streets are lived-in by locals, so children and their mothers were often outside, cooking and selling food in makeshift carts.
The Room
My room, racha, had a king bed and private terrace overlooking the surrounding rooftops and a sliver of the waterfront, a great view to start the morning. On entering the room, a wooden study with a daybed sits directly ahead. A decorative Makonde tribe stool sits to the far left corner, and a large wooden doorway leads to the terrace. The king bed is draped in white linen, likely to keep away mosquitoes, since the walls have decorative open-air gaps that are intentional design features of Swahili architecture. Wooden shutters frame the windows, and guests are advised to close them during rain. There’s no air conditioning unit, only two overhead fans which feels fine but doesn’t do much to keep you cool on particularly muggy nights.
The wall opposite the bed is carved stone, featuring a large nyota (star) and other Swahili designs leading up towards a wooden ceiling. An antique Turkmen rug grounds the space and gives it a warm, afro-bohemian feel that photos don’t do justice. The ensuite bathroom has brass finishes in warm gold tones and complimentary shower gels with a fresh ginger scent.
Since I rented a single bedroom, there were other guests staying in various additional rooms throughout the house. My room shared a locked connecting door to another guest suite, which was occupied during my visit. Its worth flagging that Andavelo House is not disability accessible; most bedrooms are situated above two or more flights on stairs, and there’s no elevator.
Food
Having a chef onsite was an advantage, especially in the first day or two since the streets in Lamu are quite narrow and confusing to navigate upon just arriving. Breakfast was a full, traditional Kenyan spread: seared chicken sausages, pan-fried seasoned potatoes, mandazi (a flat fried dough), toasted bread, fresh juice and orange marmalade. I ate alone in the common area, taking in the wood detail work around me.
Service
The service throughout my stay at Andavelo House was exceptional. In fact I felt spoiled! David checked in with me regularly through Airbnb,Safari was constantly available as a concierge for on-the-ground questions, and the chef who helped to prepare my meals. Each day I returned to my room lightly cleaned and bed made.
Honest Notes
Here’s a few things to consider before booking, because of the open-wall architecture of the home, sound travels freely. I often could hear my suite neighbor’s music or conversations without much effort and couldn’t miss the Islamic prayers that were announced every morning over a broadcast speaker. There isn’t much the hosts could do about these factors, since the house remains true to life for traditional Lamu residents, it’s all a part of the experience. While I enjoyed the views from my private terrace, I opted out of sitting on the outdoor chairs since they were thoroughly weather-stained, turning their color to dark grey and needing a wash. Lastly, the property has many flights of stairs that lead to the bedroom, if you’re physically limited you would find access quite challenging.
Final Verdict
Despite my notes of improvement, I would highly recommend Andavelo house to any visitors to Lamu, especially solo travelers. I felt well taken care of and safe during my stay.
