I Visited One of Africa’s Least-Visited Countries – A 2026 São Tomé Travel Guide

My day started off as usual, with me flicking through Reddit and tapping on any forum that might have seemed interesting. I can’t remember how exactly, but I ended up on a thread discussing map imaging and how the maps for this Central African island nation had finally been updated with newer mapped-out routes. The moderator mentioned this tiny country in Africa that was one of the least visited countries in the world. I scrolled through the geo-map photos and was so intrigued because the landscape seemed so lush and vibrant. I couldn’t believe a place as beautiful as what I was seeing was rarely visited by travelers.

Hours went by and I found myself in a deep search, learning about São Tomé and Principe and its history. A two-island archipelago sitting in the Gulf of Guinea, right on the equator, with a Portuguese speaking population and a local currency of Dobras. I felt a longing desire to learn more, better yet, to see the country and its people for myself. 

Fast forward a year, I’ve successfully visited São Tomé and cannot wait for my next visit. Let’s dig into all you’d need to know to plan a successful trip to São Tomé and Principe.

The best season to visit São Tomé

São Tomé and Principe has 4 distinct seasons, although locals will tell you the weather has a mind of its own. There are two dry seasons characterized by cooler temperatures and small amounts of rainfall, this runs from December through February and June through September. The wet season brings more frequent rainfall, lush greenery, clearer blue skies, but greater chances of mosquitoes, this runs between February through May and October through November. 

Locals will warn you against micro climates because São Tomé island truly has a mind of its own. For example, I visited during the longer dry season where in most areas it was dry but once I headed south of São Tomé island ( to visit Pico Grande) the air was thick with humidity, there was a consistent stream of light rainfall, and the clouds above were thick and almost impossible to see through.

Funnily enough, depending on what features of the island you’d want to see and how you’d like your photos to turn out, the best time to visit São Tomé may be during its rainy season. In the dry season, despite having less rain, there is a persistent haze that makes the clouds appear very gray and dull. I had to edit about 90% of any pictures and videos taken to improve the clarity. Additionally, I didn’t get the chance to see the top of Pico Grande since the clouds surrounding it were so thick and dark. In addition to darker skies, it still rained during my visit in the dry season. Keeping in mind visibility, the best season for you will depend on the activities you’d like to engage with. If your priority is hiking and bird watching, you’ll want to prioritize your visit during the drier months. The terrain in São Tomé can get very muddy and slick which will add a layer of difficulty during hikes in the middle of the country. If you’re a lover of whales, visiting between late July through October gives you a prime window for whale watching. Whatever season you choose to visit in, you’re bound to experience the treasures the island has to explore. 

How to get to São Tomé and Principe

Once you’ve got your ideal season to visit squared away, start searching for flights. Since São Tomé is one of the least visited countries in the world, flights aren’t as frequent as other destinations. The two main carriers that service this country are TAP Air Portugal and STP Airways. If you’re lucky, you’ll be able to book a direct flight from Lisbon, Portugal, Angola or Accra, Ghana.

The most cost effective flight combination for me included a flight from JFK to Lisbon, staying one night in the city, then a straight flight from Lisbon to São Tomé with TAP. The flight to Ghana would have cost me $200-$600 more than my flight to Lisbon, Portugal. I chose to self connect because the price to fly from JFK to TMS (São Tomé) within one ticket would cost me about $600 more. 

For accommodation I used Booking.com and Airbnb. Since I couldn’t visit Principe, I prioritized seeing at least two different areas within São Tomé island. The first part of my visit was in Santana, a fishing village on the east coast of the island, booked through Airbnb. For the second half, I stayed in the city center within São Tomé and booked my hotel through Booking.com. I like finalizing accommodations through Booking for the pay later flexibility and general lenient cancellation terms. 

Getting around São Tomé

Transportation is one of the most important things to sort out before you arrive. São Tomé doesn’t have robust public transportation, in the inner city most people will travel by moto taxi or larger yellow bus taxis. In cities like Santana, you may find moto taxis and yellow taxis, but the frequency of those cars are lower. For the most flexibility and freedom to explore, the best option is to rent a car and self-drive. On average, you can find a small SUV for €45/day up to €200/day for a large SUV from a reputable rental company. The second best option for flexibility when exploring São Tomé is with a local tour guide. There are plenty of tour guides on the island and the rates that they charge are relatively similar. Most full day tours will begin at €85 and can go up to €600 depending on the size of the group and the itinerary. During my 7-day visit, I traveled with a tour guide for 2-full day tours and spent €250. 

I had planned to cover more ground, but an unexpected gasoline shortage changed my itinerary. Rental car companies had no fuel to offer, and while diesel was still available those cars became a hot commodity and extremely difficult to come by. When official gas stations run dry, people typically rely on the “black market” where individuals sell their own reserves of fuel from water bottles. But even this workaround was limited as the black market sellers were hesitant to sell because of their uncertainty of when the island would get its next petrol tank. This was a real inconvenience for the citizens and tourists alike, and it’s also a clear indicator into why São Tomé isn’t a mainstream travel destination. Despite the infrastructure challenges, I still believe the country is worth visiting just be flexible with your expectations.

Activities to do in São Tomé

There is a lot to do on São Tomé island. São Tomé is sometimes called Africa’s Galapagos for its extraordinary biodiversity and barely touched ecosystems. For those who are drawn to the sea, diving with Dive São Tomé at Pestana Hotel will be a memorable experience. For those who prefer land, the thick interior offers some of the most rewarding hikes and waterfalls to traverse. At large most tours will offer a North, South, East or surrounding island tours. I chose to focus my time on exploring the south of São Tomé island and visiting Ilhéu Rolas. The islands cacao history runs deep, São Tomé was one of the world’s largest cacao exporters in the early 1900s, earning its name the Chocolate Islands. Driving back from the south after a long day of excursions, my driver, Luís pulled off the side of the road, fetched fresh cacao from a root, and gave me a piece of its fleshy yet sweet seeds.

During my visit, São Tomé experienced a gasoline shortage, so rental car companies could not offer me a car since there was no petrol to fuel the car. While there was no diesel shortage, diesel cars became a hot commodity and extremely difficult to come by. In instances where fuel is running low at official gas stations, people typically rely on the “black market” where individuals sell their own reserves of fuel from water bottles, but even this workaround was limited as the black market sellers were hesitant to sell because of their uncertainty of when the island would get its next petrol tank. Issues like this are greatly inconvenient for citizens of the country as well as tourists. The lack of reliable infrastructure gave me a peek into reasons why São Tomé isn’t globally known as a popular travel destination, yet places this untouched tend to leave the most lasting impression.

Where to eat in São Tomé

My first accommodation with NAAMA house, the owner’s wife, offered daily catering which I thoroughly enjoyed. The meals were always fish with fried batata (breadfruit), a cold salad, fruit juice, and a side of dessert.  After a few days though, I became tired of having fish for lunch and dinner. Moving to the city center offered me some reprieve since there was a greater selection of restaurants to choose from. 

My favorite meal in São Tomé was at Vilma Casa de Petiscos located in the city center. This restaurant has mid-ranged pricing and the service was great. They are known for their tapas or small plates and their variety in types of meat. Grateful for a break from grilled fish, I ordered beef with rice and peas and fried plantains. Here are some other restaurants I enjoyed during my stay in order of my preferences:

• Vila casa de Petiscos
• Restaurante Papa Figo
• Esplanada Jasmin
• Diogo Vaz (Dessert shop)
• Zima Blue
• Pico Mocambo – I had really high expectations because of the glowing reviews but this was the least flavorful and most expensive meal on the island.

How to budget for your trip to São Tomé

Budgeting for your trip to São Tomé and Principe will be the most important portion of your planning. São Tomé is still a developing nation, so some vendors do not accept foreign Visa cards (especially south of the island), and the ATM’s in the city center tend to run out of cash towards the end of the day. During my 7-day trip, I brought €500 in cash and spent about €200 more using my Visa credit card. My recommendation is to create your itinerary and identify which ones are cash only. For the options that do not require cash, reserve your cash and pay with a card. As a solo traveler you can estimate to spend €150 per day for a modest stay, this afforded me two private tours, 1 scuba diving excursion, and lunch and dinner each day.

The tricky part of budgeting here is adjusting your expectations. Despite São Tomé island’s compact size and low-profile in the global travel realm, food and certain services are quite expensive. 

Final reflections

I am grateful to have experienced the wonderful islands of São Tomé. Despite being an English speaker I was able to peak into the lives of the locals and make genuine connections with strangers. I have unfinished business with São Tomé and hope to visit again in the near future. Principe island is calling my name!