Complete Travel Guide to Lamu, Kenya: Where to Stay, What to Do & When to Go
Where is Lamu?
Lamu, Kenya is a charming island located off the east coast of Africa. Resting alongside the Indian ocean, Lamu is part of an Archipelago that includes Lamu Old Town, Manda, and Pate Island. Thanks to Lamu’s proximity to the equator and Indian ocean, the weather is often hot and tropical for most of the year.
During my visit, I stayed in Lamu Old Town and made a day trip to the Majlis resort on Mada Island. Although the islands appear close to one another, each one has its own unique vibe. Lamu Island, the world’s oldest and best preserved Swahili settlement, is where most of the locals live— you can think of it as the town center. Here you’ll find boys riding donkeys, fishermen and their motorboats, women selling food from carts, and tourists exploring the narrow streets. With the narrow and unpaved roads, the main modes of transportation are by boat, donkey, or motorbike.
Similar to Nairobi and other Kenyan cities, Lamu uses the Kenya Shilling, and Swahili is the main language. I’d crown Lamu one of East Africa’s hidden gems. Unspoiled by mass tourism, Lamu retains historic architecture of Swahili and traditional settlements dating back hundreds of years. From the sprawling mangroves to the fine sand beaches, the island has treasures for every type of traveler.
Why Visit Lamu, Kenya?
What sets Lamu apart from other destinations like Mombasa, Tanzania, or Zanzibar is its well-maintained Swahili settlements. Lamu is one of the only Swahili settlements that remained inhabited for over 700 years. A blend of Bantu, Persian, Arabian, Indian, and European settlers shaped the unique architecture and culture that exists today.
If you love architecture and nature like I do, then you’ll appreciate the intricate details of the homes, doors. Many buildings were built with coral stone so they radiate a warm, sandy tone. Each home is adorned with detailed wood carving, some with words in Arabic. The layout of Swahili homes reflect the cultural practices and traditions, with each entrance doubling as a waiting area for visitors, glassless windows, and geometric mouldings on walls. Walking through Lamu feels like stepping into a 700 year old time capsule.
When’s The Best Time to Visit Lamu?
Lamu’s proximity to the equator makes it very humid. Since Lamu is surrounded by water, the wind tends to have a cooling effect so it isn’t unbearably hot all the time.
- Dry season:
- July to October
- January to February
- Rainy Season
- November to December
- March to May
How Can Visitors Get to Lamu?
You can reach Lamu by plane, car, or a ferry boat. The fastest but most expensive way to arrive in Lamu is by plane. Airlines like Jambojet, Skyward Express 350, and Hahn Air make trips from Nairobi or Mombasa to Lamu’s only airport, Manda Airport. After landing in Manda airport, you’ll need to take a water taxi to Lamu island, Shela island, or drive to your accommodation on Manda island. Typically, your accommodation will organize your transportation to the mainland upon arrival, but always double check! There are no ride share apps on the island so plan accordingly.
Best Practices While in Lamu
Lamu is a culturally conservative town, heavily influenced by Islam and Swahili traditions. Most local women here wear a hijab and are fully clothed concealing their arms, legs. While there are women who don’t wear a hijab, the overwhelming majority of women here are covered from head to toe.
For women visiting Lamu, I recommend wearing clothes that cover the knees, shoulders, and stomach. Avoid wearing cropped tops, short shorts, mini skirts, and bodycon clothing. Men typically wear pants to the knee or below and loose fit shirts.
Where to Stay in Lamu
- Lamu “Old Town”
Lamu “Old Town” is the epicenter of the region. Known for being a UNESCO World Heritage site, here you’ll find a bustling town where families, businesses, and general livelihood happens. The mornings here are greeted by an Islamic prayer over a speakerphone loud enough for anyone on the island to hear. The waterfront is decorated with the townspeople (mostly men) lounging, conversing, and working. Donkey’s are scattered across the town, providing transportation to villagers due to the narrow streets and lack of cars. If you want a sense for how Lamu residents live, Old Town is the place to be.
- Manda Island
Here you’ll find the region’s expansive mangroves and an endless shoreline of white sand beaches. The well-known Majlis Resort lives on Manda island as well as other private villas. If you want a break from the bustle of Old Town, I highly recommend a day trip (or two!) to Manda.
- Shela
Compared to Old Town, Shela is definitely the younger and quieter cousin. Here, you’ll find numerous private villas and hotels for visitors. Most of the visitors in Shela are vacationers, so the vibe is generally relaxed, cleaner, and quieter. When I return to Lamu, I will definitely stay on Shela and take a day trip to the Old Town.
How Many Days in Lamu is Enough?
It depends on how long you can enjoy doing nothing! Kenyans live by the saying Pole Pole (slowly slowly) and the people in Lamu are no different. Aside from a few attractions that I’ll highlight below, you’ll spend the majority of your time enjoying the beach, surfing, and eating the local cuisine. Personally, 4-5 days would be perfect for relaxing and taking in the scenery.
Top Things To Do in Lamu
- Dhow Sailing
- Lamu Museum
- Fishing and Snorkeling
- Old Town City Tour
- Heena Painting
- Donkey Sanctuary
- Swahili Cooking Lessons
- Takwa Ruins
- Swahili House
- Day pass at Majlis or Peponi Hotel
Final Thoughts
After exploring the buzzing city of Nairobi and trekking alongside the lions and Elephants in Masai Mara, Lamu was the perfect resting point. The islands of Lamu are a gem, hidden in plain sight and largely untouched by mass tourism. Its authentic Swahili culture from the food, language, and architecture of the town make the destination unforgettable. I’ll never forget Lamu and dream of the day I can visit again.
Is Lamu Safe for Female Solo Travelers?
As a solo female traveler, it’s my duty to share my experiences in Lamu. From the moment I stepped off the water taxi and landed on Old Town, I felt all eyes on me. Lamu is a small close-knit town where most people know each other, so tourists will stand out. My first day I encountered frequent attention from men—mostly asking me questions about myself and offering me tours. While I never felt unsafe during my stay, my presence never went unnoticed.
Thankfully, I met Kassim (@kassimtoursholiday), a local tour guide who made my experience smoother. Before meeting Kassim, I had no pre-planned activities and just hoped for the best. He organized my itinerary fit to my interests and budget, and helped me avoid unwanted attention. I highly recommend visiting his social profile and getting familiar with his content as there are imposters pretending to be him on the island. Kassim is kind and trustworthy. I couldn’t recommend his services enough!
